SUPER SAFE, SUPER SERVICE, SUPER STEER.

Last summer, when gas prices were off the charts, we bought a used motor home. The motor home was like new inside, only needed some TLC on the exterior and only a few things, like a major tune-up and some steering items, that needed service mechanically. I’d planned to install my MPG increasing Mileageman1 water induction/hydrogen system, so mileage wasn’t a big concern like it otherwise would have been.

SLACK IN THE STEERING ON THE TEST DRIVE.
	Before purchasing the motorhome, we took it for a test drive. There was some excessive play in the steering and the salesman told me they were all that way. Having been involved for years with automobiles, mechanics and various inventions of my own design, I was sure there was some problem, and that they weren’t all that way.

IF YOU CAN'T, HAVE SOMEONE ELSE CHECK IT OUT.

When we got back to the sales lot, I had my wife move the steering wheel from side to side, just enough to remove all the slack and a little bit more. While she did that, I held my hand on each moving part, the tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arms and also idler arm brackets to feel for grinding or popping. I found excessive sideways movement in the driver’s side idler arm bracket, also called a bell crank, but the rest of the steering components appeared fine. At the time, we were parked in a gravel lot. If you’ve never done this type of check before, you can do a more complete and comprehensive diagnosis on a hard surface like asphalt or concrete.

KNOWING THE PROBLEM SAVES $$$$.

There should be no lost motion in any of the steering components. If the part is moving up or down or side to side before it moves what it’s attached to, you have lost motion or excessive play and the part should be replaced. The idler arm shaft, where my finger is pointing, was moving side to side before it turned. If you have a large pry bar, you can pry on the components to check for popping noises when pressure is placed on the part. Another thing to be aware of is a grinding feeling when holding or touching the part while the steering wheel is being turned. My preliminary check gave us another bargaining point and saved us some additional money before the deal was closed.

I BROUGHT MORE TOOLS THAN I NEEDED.

We had commitments that fall and winter and left the motorhome parked at our son and daughter in law’s until the last of the following March. Besides the steering slack, we had various other things we wanted to accomplish before leaving for the summer’s road ahead. With the first break in the weather, I crawled under the motorhome and rechecked the steering on their concrete driveway. I’d brought every tool I thought I’d need, including pry bars for checking the other suspension components. The driver’s side idler arm bracket was the only problem, and I began looking for a replacement.

THE PART I NEEDED WASN'T AVAILABLE AT AUTO PARTS STORES.

The only idler arm assembly the auto parts stores showed was a three bolt idler arm. Larger motorhomes, at least on GM “P” type frames, have four bolts that bolt it to the frame. Next, I went to the local truck salvage yard and walked the rows. On every frame that would have had that type of steering, the idler arm assembly was missing. That told me the part was a high wear item with a short service life span, which meant to me that if I bought a factory type part, it would probably have to be replaced again and again if we put very many miles on the motorhome.

THANKS INTERNET.

I discovered, through multiple conversations, that there was an after market replacement part the had roller bearings instead of the factory bushings. I searched the Internet and, after quite a few dead ends, found http://supersteersuperstop.com. After looking at their online catalog, I called them up. They were very knowledgeable, helpful and easy to do business with. Even if you’ve never done this type of work before, with the concise information they gave me during our phone conversation, it would be possible to do a complete check for the parts that require replacement. We haven’t driven the motorhome very far but if we find the suspension needs to be upgraded from the factory parts, I know that I’ll find the right parts and information at supersteersuperstop.com.

THE PART DIDN'T GET SHIPPED AND I HAD TO MAKE ANOTHER CALL.
	We had a small glitch with the UPS shipping. It didn’t cause a problem for me since I was working in our son’s driveway and had to wait for a break in the weather anyway.

EASY TO DIFFICULT, DEPENDING ON THE MECHANIC.
	On a scale from one to ten, even for a novice, the job wouldn’t be more than an eight. For someone with good mechanical knowledge and know how, I’d rate it about a three.

THE TOOLS YOU'LL NEED.

To do the job on a Chevrolet “P” type chassis, you’ll need an 1-1/4” socket for the bolt on the bottom of the idler arm shaft, plus a 11/16” socket and 5/8” socket for the four bolts that hold it to the frame. I have a wide mouthed pickle fork, a tool that is driven between the bracket and the idler arm to remove it, but found that it was easier to simply drive down on the idler arm with a large, short handled sledge hammer. I used a large, approximately 2” diameter, short brass punch, also called a drift or drift punch, to keep from scarring or denting the idler arm. It would be possible to use a thick, flat piece of brass or aluminum in place of the brass punch. I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left, and locked it in place by removing the ignition key so none of the downward force would be absorbed in rotation. Once the arm was loose on the shaft, it was necessary to unlock the steering in order to take pressure off the four bolts that attach the assembly to the frame.

GIVE YOURSELF A BREAK!
	When replacing the assembly with the Super Steer part, give yourself a break and put the nuts on the bracket side instead of inside the frame like they do at the factory. Lying on the the ground is a lot different than having it up where things are more visible and easier to work on. Putting the bolts through from inside the frame will make the job a lot quicker and simpler.

EASY, QUICK AND EFFECTIVE.
	The job took less than an hour, required few tools and took all the slack out of the steering.

HOW I RATE SUPER STEER.
	If I was asked to give Super Steer a rating from 1 to 10 for product quality, customer service, accurate information and ease of installation, I’d give them a 9.5, with the shipping problem being the only deduction.

BEING SAFE MAKES RVing MORE FUN.
	If you have a motorhome, fifth wheel or pull trailer, you might want to look at http://supersteersuperstop.com before buying parts elsewhere. They manufacture and use what they sell.